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Savage Magical Africa
by Alec Cole - Journalist
A personal account of Alec's visit
to the valley
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Savage Magical Africa
Since
I was a boy, I have always had a fantasy that magic is a real thing.
Not
man magic like that of illusion used by circus entertainers or the media,
but a tangible magic, a natural magic. World magic.
My magic has always blossomed with the rising of the sun and moon,
it whistles with the wind and thunders with the skies.
My magic maintains the balance of harmony, the harmony so
necessary in the survival of our world.
The
magic I talk of is ancient. It
is sacred and it is pure. Now,
I am content. For I have found that magic.
I
have found a place so seeped in magic that I fear for sanity once I return
to my concrete world of highways and skyscrapers. I fear I have caught a disease. A contagious
disease…..A disease so common it is almost epidemic. I have caught the disease that is Africa.
Wild savage Africa.
I
find my magic in North Eastern Zambia, in a place called Luangwa Valley.
I embarked upon a trip so authentic that I never dreamed of the
fantastic sense of peace that would follow me as I travel.
I wanted a safari. I wanted to see a lion hunt and hear his roar
echo across the sky. I wanted to know what makes him king of the jungle
and why his name seeps into so much legend and folklore.
I wanted an Elephant without a trainer, a giraffe without a cage, a
buffalo without a mount. I
wanted a taste of Africa……………..And Zambia gave it to me!
Last
year I met Andy on a small stall representing Zambia at the World travel
market in London.
Andy
owns a series of bush camps along the southern edge of the Luangwa River
in the Luangwa National Park. Called
appropriately “The Bush Camp Company”, Andy offers the African
explorer a taste of exclusive Africa.
His four camps are designed to accommodate every individual taste
and the reason I allowed myself to sign up was not only the fame of the
Luangwa Park, but also Andy’s assurance that each camp I stayed in would
offer me a complete different experience.
The idea of a unique Safari had me hooked and as I sit here now I
can only describe my mood as elated.
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Currently
I am sprawled across the decking of my chalet at Chendeni camp. It is
early morning and as I write this and the only companions I have are a
troop of yellow Baboons coming down from the safety of a night in the
trees and a myriad of birds chorusing the new dawn.
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The camp is spectacular. Sited
on the apex of an ox bow lagoon, shaded by ancient ebony trees and framed
by a range of hills known as the “Chendeni Hills” this place can only
be described as holy.
The
sun is slowly rising over the rugged line of the hills and the lagoon is
reflecting that unique vibrant orange color endemic to both African
sunrise and sunset. The air is crisply cool and the beauty of this morning
truly inspiring.
Elation
is definitely the mood of the day!
The
ebony trees standing so proud above me have stood here for close to a
thousand years and I am awed to think of how many countless sunrises they
have witnessed over this picture. Gnarled branches reach out across the
water as if grasping at the new sun, reaching for the life that sustains
them. Where once the mighty
Luangwa river flowed so many years ago the ox bow lagoon really finishes
the portrait that makes this site as old as the Chendeni hills that frame
it. |
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I
arrived at Chendeni yesterday afternoon from Kuyenda, another of Andy’s
camps. In fact Kuyenda is responsible for setting the scene for my current
mood.
The camp is managed by
a couple named Phil and Babette and if ever a place could take on the
character of those that live there, Kuyenda is the place.
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Phil Berry has been involved in the Luangwa Valley since 1962.
First as a wildlife ranger protecting the sanctuary and now has the
distinction of being one of the most experienced Africa men today.
I
cannot help but describe Phil as someone you read about in Wilbur Smith
novels. He is worthy of the
dignity that he carries with him. His lifetime experiences are almost as
heroic as the dedication and love that he bears for the bush. Totally
committed to the well being of the nature he has spent his life protecting
and preserving it. Phil sets
an example to us all.
If
there is magic here, part of it is Phil’s weaving.
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| Kuyenda
camp really is the most authentic bush camp I have yet to visit.
It is luxuriously simple. Comfortable and welcoming it has all the
taste and atmosphere of old Africa. Such
a refreshing change to have the standards necessary but at the same time
no drama, no frills and no pretence.
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| The four reed and thatch chalets are
cozy, secure and tastefully blended into the surrounding bush. So well
blended that I did not even know I had arrived until Phil was shaking my
hand and welcoming me into his world.
The dining area peeps across a
grassland vista that when the wind blows,
ripples with golden waves reach the banks of the Manzi River. This
sand river is perennial and must be spectacular to see when the first
flood of the rains wash along it’s course.
The
cuisine was superb and how they managed to supply ice in my gin and tonic
I will never know. Sitting
around the fire with Phil and Babette can only be described as charming.
With firelight dancing shadows across the rustic chalets and Phil
recounting stories from the past of man eating lions, the days of the
black rhino and ancient elephants bearing 200lb of ivory, one could not
help but relax into the enchantment that is Kuyenda.
Time
stands still here and the feeling of eternal Africa so strong could have
put me around this fire anytime over the last century.
The
main idea of the Bush Camp Company is to enable guests to experience
Africa on foot and the company slogan is “from a vehicle you can see
Africa, on foot you can hear, feel and taste Africa” could not be closer
to the truth. |
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first walking safari ever turned out to be one of the highlights of my
life and Phil even commented that it had been one of his best for a while.
Its an early wake up call in the bush as the animals wait for no
man, so after a light breakfast Phil led us out into wild Africa. I will
always remember the feeling as I strolled behind Phil.
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| The grass still
glistened with early morning dew and the light was surreal, setting the
scene for my sense of anticipation.
Within
ten minutes of the safari we came across a herd of buffalo, Phil guessed
at about 350 strong. This, of course was spectacular to see but standing
in the forefront of this throng was a huge old male.
Regal at the best of
times Kakulis (means “old man” in the vernacular) are very impressive
but this one even more so as he had a completely white face. Phil has, of course, seen this fellow before, but never
standing individually and never posing for the safari as he did that day.
Local
lore states that a phenomenon of this kind brings good luck to those that
see it and it certainly seems to be true as the next two hours unveiled a
pride of fifteen lion, including two big males one of which sported a full
black mane. This is not unusual around Kuyenda but these lions had chosen
a most convenient location to sprawl around.
They were relaxing contentedly within a wide ravine and following
behind Phil we were able to top the rise and watch quietly from less than
30 m. The lions never even
knew we were there.
The
thrill of being so close to these magnificent animals made bunji-jumping
pale into insignificance. I
really believe if everyone could see this, human race would be humbled. Phil introduced us to so many things I have never even considered
could be part of a safari experience, how naive I have been in the past
with my concept of Africa.
Old
white face spent the day in sight of the camp and his luck charm carried
over to our night drive. Less
than two km from the camp and before the sun had completed its downward
spiral our safari came across a male leopard stalking a puku. We watched for nearly 40 minutes as he slowly stalked his
unsuspecting prey and I do not think anyone can ever understand the depth
of skill and patience a leopard must have if it is to survive. It really was an anxious time for me, torn between the desire to
see him succeed and horror at the fate of the poor puku. I was incredibly
relieved and equally disappointed when the wind changed. The puku got a
nose full of leopard and dashed away to the relative safety of the dark. Phil told me that Leopards are only successful in 30%
of hunts so we could at least be consoled in the fact that he would hunt
again and would not go hungry for long.
Zambia is one of the only countries that allows
night drives all be it on a strictly controlled time limit so as not to
disturb the nocturnal animals. |
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The
whole concept is great and allows visitors to view some of the lesser
known animals. Even wildlife documentaries tend to omit information on
nighttime creatures and I was really pleased to discover some I had never
seen before. My favorite was the little genet.
This is an omnivorous
predator that feeds on any thing from fruit to small vertebrates and has
the appearance of a small leopard. Genets are solitary predators that is
just as much at home in the trees as on the ground and we had great fun as
we watched one repeatedly jumping for a bat that was swooping over his
head.
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He never did catch it
but his acrobatics as he leaped twisting in the air time and time again
were hilarious.
On
the way back to camp we where once again blessed with the luck of the
white buffalo as a serval popped nonchalantly out from the thick bush and
stood in the center of the road. I,
of course, was slow to appreciate the value of this sighting but
apparently it is one of the rarest and Phil said he had not seen one for a
year. They are apparently only active for two hours a night so we really
felt privileged to see him.
Was it over…not quite. The best of the night,
five minutes from camp, an aardvark!
This little fellow usually only shows himself in the early hours of
the morning when the park is off limits to us. To see him like this made
it truly a remarkable safari.
Dinner
in the camp was as luxurious an affair as the safari, and the delicious
meal and good company combined with excitement and overdose of fresh air
of my first full days safari had me well and truly ready for bed.
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Phil did comment that my
drooping eyelids may have been due to the oaky essence of the full bodied
red that accompanied dinner but as he walked me back to my chalet I
assured him that this at least was one thing about the day that I had
experienced before.
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Any new experience often
leaves one waiting for sleep as the days memories replay trough the mind,
but here in Kuyenda the new experiences just keep on coming and night in
Africa certainly made my stay a whole new experience.
The black curtain of night
seemed at first glance so thick and impenetrable, yet the darkness was
rarely silent.
The cacophony of sounds was
mesmerizing as the orchestra of night offered its unique lullaby and I sat
transfixed as my imagination tried to put a picture to each sound.
The grand finale conducted
by the midnight maestro himself. Ladies and gentleman the Luangwa Valley
concerto is proud to present, his royal highness, the King of the Jungle. Seeming to come from a mile away but yet ending up almost outside
my door. The lions roar truly
is the most impressive sound I have yet to hear and far exceeded how I had
imagined it back in my south London apartment.
Call it journalistic
license or call it a personal lust for romanticism but the lions call
seems to issue a challenge across the hunting grounds, a dare to one and
all, man or beast to intrude upon the pride lands!
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Having seen his regal
posture during the day and now to hear his mighty signature echo around my
soul, my earlier queries of legend and folklore are answered and this
beast will remain for the rest of my days a product of magic.
Believing myself to now be
awake for the entire night I settled comfortably onto my bed and allowed
the feeling of complete solitude embrace me.
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for the first time ever free of any of the stress I normally invite into
my life.
Africa is a drug, and I was
already addicted.
Needless to say sleep crept
up on me, and the next thing I remember is Phil knocking on my door and
once again waking me up into this land of Dreams.
Breakfast was a fairly
hurried affair as Phil’’s interpretation of last nights noises was the
possibility of a kill and that he felt fairly certain the pride we viewed
the day before where responsible for. Needless to say I was rearing to go.
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| Phil led us to the valley
where we had viewed the pride the day before and after picking up the
tracks he led us on our own hunt. I
thoroughly enjoyed tracking the lion and Phil talked us through all
aspects of tracking and took time to make sure we where involved and aware
of each clue left for us.
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This whole hunt was very
stimulating as the constant safety measures taken by Phil and James the
armed Wildlife Scout couldn't help but remind one that this was no longer a
television documentary and that our quarry was not necessarily the cuddly
cub from Disney’s Lion King.
Luangwa Valley is known
within safari circles as the pioneer of the walking safari and watching
our guides at work really brought home how important it is to have the
necessary experience to undertake such an adventure.
With little or no idea as
to the actual whereabouts of the kill, or even at this stage if there even
was one, every step was carefully monitored and planned. Phil went to great pains to skirt any long grass or thickets,
making sure that even if we walked far from the tracks we where following,
we where always in the open and had clear views all around us until he
would lead us back to the original spoor.
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listening, watching the horizon and skies, scrutinizing distant shade and
even keeping an eye on other game to judge its behavior combined with the
telltale path before us eventually paid off and after about an hour and a
half of tracking Phil lowered his binoculars and pointed out a distant
clue.
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Two solitary vultures hung
patiently on the thermals and closer inspection of the trees produced the
silhouette of more of these ugly necessary birds perched ungracefully in
the branches.
There was still no sign of
lion but Phil quickly pointed out that most initial hungers would have
been satiated during the night and probably the great cats would be lying
nearby the carcass in the shade, contentedly digesting until round two.
With two days at Kuyenda under my belt, I was well and truly converted to
the ways of the African experience.
The thought of leaving Kuyenda and the 48hrs of fantastic safaris and
excellent company reminded me of the adolescent pang I experienced some
years ago when I first left home……except this time the feeling of
entering the great unknown was far more literal.
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| Today’s destination was Bilimungwe bushcamp and the confluence of the
mighty Luangwa and Kapamba rivers. |
| The name Bilimungwe means Chameleon but knowing this before departure did
not help in preparing for the literal proof of this.
A winding drive took me up the side of the escarpment.
Coupled with the dramatic
habitat change, the views of the valley stretched out below me were awe
inspiring. |
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| It was such a pleasure to get an idea of the big picture and insight into
how the river has etched
its’ path over the years and the character that has created this unique
place. High ground brings
with it more diversity of game and the possibility of spotting Sable or
Roan antelope or even the reclusive Duiker. Although we did not spot these majestic antelope during this drive
the chance of doing so kept me firmly on watch, with my binoculars finely
poised. With the warm sense of peace and satisfaction glowing in my
belly the trip was over all too quickly and we were arriving at camp.
Like a chameleon perfectly blended into and against the canopy backdrop,
Bilimungwe took me completely by surprise!
Even as we disembarked the vehicle I could see no evidence of camp. Hollow through the middle, a thicket with a translucent arched
walkway, soft with green hue tempted me to enter and explore. Passing trough this dramatic entrance I was immediately struck at
how apt the name of this camp is, as “Chameleon” Bushcamp slowly
emerged from the camouflage jungle.
The complete blending of this camp makes its plush chalets hard to
believe, so spacious and luxurious.
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En
suite bathrooms with double vanities and individual private verandahs add
to the pleasure of the rustic brick and thatch roofs and the tasteful but
subtle décor and colour scheme.
Obvious
attention has been paid to detail and the chalets reflect
this.
Incredible that such a discreet camp hides four such chalets, a raised
deck, open-air dining room and a quaint “Canoe bar”, all nestled under
a huge African Mahogany. A
permanent waterhole complete with a resident troop of baboons and bathing
Warthogs and the 180-degree floodplain vista backing onto my chalet,
complete my surroundings.
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All is invisible until one is actually standing in the
camp.
by Alec
Cole
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