Fears, Feasts and Mud Fights

I woke up the next morning to the unfamiliar cries of the bush morning chorus. As I lay in bed, I could look out right across the lagoon where lilac-breasted rollers swooped and dived over the surface. 6am and it was time to walk.

Making my way to the dining area, I found Debbie busily packing up some snacks for the walk. My apprehensions about bushwalking flooded back - after all, there were quite a few animals out there that might well consider me to be a tasty breakfast. Something in my face must have alerted Keennan, my guide. He came over to my table, his eyes crinkled with sympathy and humour and began to explain the 'rules' of walking in the South Luangwa. Keennan is one of the most experienced and respected guides in the park. For over fifteen years he has been revealing the wonders of the bush to tourists like me and as we set off, it became obvious that he knew exactly what he was doing and that I was going to be safe with him and James, the National Parks' armed scout (guides, scouts - it was getting more like a jamboree by the minute!).

I don't think I will ever forget that first walk with Keennan. He talked of the trees, their fruits and leaves and their uses in medicine and welfare. He told me about the birds and insects who depend on them and what they gave back in return. He described the flowers and the scrubby bushes, the river and the effects it has on the valley throughout the year. And he talked of the animals, making them come alive as individuals, concerned about their families, ruthlessly ensuring their survival. I felt as if I were in the middle of a television programme - a David Attenborough show perhaps, or a National Geographic production - with all this activity going on around me, all of it fitting together in one great, coherent, colourful rhythm of life.

I returned to camp tired, but buzzing with excitement with all that I had seen and learnt. Debbie had laid on a delicious brunch and I spent the rest of the afternoon lazing by the river - after all, you can't work all the time can you? Later on the vehicle rolled up in time for afternoon tea and disgorged my companions for the next few days - Reuben and Clare from New York who were over celebrating their tenth wedding anniversary and Steve and Shana, seasoned safari-goers from Cape Town.

As evening came upon us, we got to know each other over some thoroughly chilled beers and watched the wildlife congregating at the lagoon; the warthog family with all the children kneeling in rows beside their parents, their tails high in the air like radio aerials; the monkey family with the most enchanting pair of twins I have ever seen - hilarious to watch but if they'd been mine, I'd have given them up for adoption; the stately elephant herd who lost all their grandeur and inhibitions when they reached the water and indulged in the most glorious mud flight I've ever seen.