This morning, Keennan decided to try and explain how he tracks animals, how he knows what is around and what its been eating etc. A vast amount of this knowledge is gained from one simple substance - dung. Charming subject, particularly just after breakfast, but it really is the lingua franca of the bush. Actually, I'm sorry to have to say that we all found it absolutely fascinating and before long, we were competing with each other to distinguish impala droppings (bit like rabbits but all together in one communal heap) from giraffe (slightly cone-shaped and used by the locals for earrings - honest!). Learning to look more carefully at what was around us made us all feel more 'African' and, quite proud of ourselves, we followed the tracks of an elephant herd ( just go by the size of the droppings!) across the plain and into Bilimungwe.

Of the three camps so far, 'Bili' was definitely the best camouflaged - fitting really, since Bilimungwe means Chameleon. Catherine came to meet us with ice-cold cloths to wipe off the dust of the walk and we immediately sat down to more delicious food. Afterwards she showed us to our rooms - charming and cosy with bamboo walls and bright furnishings. All the details we had come to expect (lovely showers, crisp bed linen) were there and I reflected how nice it was not to be on an old-fashioned safari where you have to wait three hours at every stop for camp to be constructed. This was life in the lap of luxury and I was all for it.

We spent the afternoon playing board games on the central decking area which overlooks the waterhole and is built around the base of a huge mahogany tree. Our walk that evening took us to the river where we were greeted by clouds of bright scarlet birds rushing in and out of thousands of holes in the steep sandy banks of the Luangwa. Carmine bee-eaters, according to Keennan, and we relished g & t's as we watched them darting around, catching insects as the sun set over the horizon. The hippos in the river below had set up a close-harmony singing group for our benefit and, as always, it seemed too early when Catherine and the vehicle turned up to take us back for a night drive, supper, nightcap and bed.