Journalist Sankha Guha, writing for The Independent, visits the Bushcamp Company in August 2005

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' The bush camp at Chamilandu is shamelessly luxurious. This is not camping as Lord Baden-Powell would have recognised it. Guest rooms are on huge, L-shaped platforms erected on tree-trunk pillars about 12 feet off the ground. They are completely open to the elements; no door, no lock, not even a wire screen to keep out a monkey, let alone a curious leopard or a hungry lion. The bathroom is open to the skies and the view. While having a hot shower you can watch giraffes crossing the Luangwa river.

I find a little green tree frog in the wardrobe. He is so completely still that at first I am convinced he is an ornament. He is a Zen Frog. I move him to the edge of the terrace. Instead of jumping he simply turns his back on me. I admire his sangfroid. But a thought crosses my mind; if frogs are here, what about things that eat frogs (eg snakes)?

Snakes feature in conversation over dinner. No bush tucker trial here, incidentally - it is silver service, pumpkin soup, tender pepper steak, crunchy mini-corn, apple crumble and custard. Richard, a guide from one of the local villages, tells us about the time he was attacked inside his jeep by a 9ft black mamba that had reared up on its tail. It seems a tall snake - and an even taller story.

Richard used to play in rock bands and raised money for his church playing Rolling Stones numbers including "Sympathy for the Devil". He chortles. His sons are called Elvis and Hendrix.

His story about the Mamba attack is true. I have it confirmed the next day by an unimpeachable authority. Phil Berry is something of a legend in the South Luangwa, a respected wildlifer who can identify the Thornicroft's giraffes of the valley individually by the patterns on their necks. He is a gentle man, old school, self effacing and immediately likeable.

Phil runs the Kuyenda Bush Camp, rondavels - huts - made from....'

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